What plants root well from cuttings?

Propagating Foliage & Flowering Plants

A good propagation medium is made up of components that provide optimum aeration, drainage and moisture holding characteristics. These are usually made up from combinations of peat moss, perlite, vermiculite, sand or similar materials. The primary role of a propagation medium is to provide support and moisture while the plant is developing. These requirements are quite different from those of a potting medium, which may have to sustain a mature or growing plant over a long period of time. Generally speaking, potting media are not recommended for plant propagation purposes.

Many plants will easily root in water. However, the roots that form can be extremely fibrous and stringy. Plants rooted in water often have a difficult time becoming established after they are transplanted to a container.

Moisture:

The propagation medium should be thoroughly moistened before use. Many organic materials, like peat moss, have a waxy outer coating that resists wetting. Be sure to apply water slowly to obtain uniform distribution. This may require 2-3 applications. It is not uncommon for a medium to look wet on the surface but to be powdery dry in the middle. A well moistened media will make it easier to stick cuttings later on.

Light:

Light is an important environmental factor in plant propagation. Generally speaking, low light levels cause plants to root slowly. However, high light intensities can stress cuttings, causing them to burn or drop leaves. Diffused sunlight generally provides enough light for optimum rooting without causing injury to the cuttings.

Humidity:

Since cuttings do not have roots, they cannot replace the water lost through transpiration. Therefore it is important to maintain high humidity around the cuttings to cut down on the amount of moisture lost to the atmosphere.

These conditions can be provided by placing a clear piece of plastic over the propagation area. This causes condensation to form on the underside of the plastic that provides the necessary humidity.

Adequate ventilation is also required to avoid disease problems. The plastic covering should be placed such that air can flow freely around the cuttings as they root.

Temperature:

For best results, maintain day temperatures at 70 degrees F. During winter months, soil can be as much as 10-20 degrees less than air temperature, so provide bottom heat when possible. Ideal rootzone temperatures for most plants are approximately 70-75 degrees F.

Rooting Hormones:

Rooting hormones are often used to promote root formation. These materials provide supplemental auxin, a naturally occurring plant hormone that is responsible for root development. The basal end of the cutting is dipped into the chemical prior to sticking it into the propagation medium. These products come in different strengths and will vary according to the type of plant being propagated.

Stem and Section Cuttings:

There are two types of stem cuttings: tip cuttings, which include the apex or plant tip and a small portion of the stem; and section cuttings, which include a 2- to 3-inch section of stem (not including the apex or plant tip> and leaf joint.

To take a tip cutting, select a section of stem with a healthy crown of leaves at the end. Carefully remove the lower foliage to leave a section of bare stem to insert into the propagation media. Bottom heat, provided by a heating cable, will encourage rooting. Generally, cuttings do best with a media temperature of approximately 75 degrees F.

Plants Propagated from Stem Cuttings:

Plants which can be propagated from stem cuttings include the following:

African Violet – tip cutting
Acalypha (Red-hot cat tail) – stem cuttings
Aglaeonema (Chinese evergreen) – tip cuttings*
Begonia – tip and stem cuttings*
Beloperone (Shrimp Plant) – tip cuttings
Brassaia actinophylla (Schefflera) tip cuttings
Christmas cactus – tip cuttings
Cissus (Grape Ivy) – tip cuttings or stem cuttings
Citrus – tip cuttings
Coleus – tip cuttings*
Crassula (Jade Plant) – tip cuttings*
Croton – tip cuttings
Cordyline terminalis – tip cuttings*
Dieffenbachia – tip cuttings*
Dracaena (Ti Plant) – stem and tip cuttings*
Ficus elastica (Rubber Plant) – tip cuttings
Ficus benjamina (Weeping Fig) – tip cuttings
Fittonia – tip cuttings
Geranium – tip cuttings*
Hedera (Ivy) – stem cuttings*
Helxine (Baby’s Tears) – stem cuttings
Hoya carnosa (Was Plant) – tip cuttings
Impatiens – tip cuttings*
Maranta (Prayer Plant) – tip cuttings
Monstera – tip cuttings
Nepthitis – tip and stem
Peperomia – tip cuttings
Philodendron – tip and stem cuttings*
Pothos – tip and stem cuttings*
Pilea cadierea (Aluminum Plant) – tip cuttings*
Plectranthus (Swedish Ivy) – tip cuttings and stem cuttings*
Podocarpus – tip cuttings
Poinsettia – stem cuttings
Selaginella (Resurrection Plant) – tip cuttings

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Asterisk* indicates these are particularly easy to propagate.

Rooting Plants in Water:

Some plants root so readily from stem or tip cuttings they can be started in plain tap water. The water must be kept clean and well aerated for best results. A bright location out of direct sunlight is best. After roots are formed plants should be transferred to individual pots, or grouped together in a hanging basket. The following plants are among the easiest to root in plain water:

African violet (Saintpaulia)
Begonia
Cissus (Grape Ivy)
Coleus
Cordyline terminalis (Ti Plant)
Ficus pumila (Creeping Fig)
Hedera (English Ivy)
Helxine (Baby’s Tears)
Impatiens
Philodendron oxycardium (Heart Leaf)
Philodendron pandureaform (Fiddle Leaf)
Plectranthus (Swedish Ivy)
Scindapsus (Pothos)
Syngonia (Tri-Leaf Wonder)
Tradescantia (Wandering Jew)
Zygocactus (Christmas Cactus)

Leaf Cuttings:

Many plants with soft, fleshy foliage have developed the ability to reproduce themselves from leaves. Considering that some plants grow hundreds of leaves, you can appreciate the propagation potential for these species. In addition, leaf propagation is much faster and more reliable than propagating plants from seed.

The most widely practiced method of taking a leaf cutting is to snip off a healthy leaf, complete with a short piece of stem. The end of the leaf cutting is then dipped in a rooting hormone and the stalk is stuck in to a moist propagation media. Bottom heat of about 75 degrees F should be provided if possible. Adequate humidity levels are maintained by frequent water sprays, or by covering the propagating tray with clear plastic.

After about two or three weeks the leaves should be well rooted with a new plant forming at the base. It is these new plantlets which form around the stem which are used to transplant. The old leaf can be discarded.

Plants which root most readily from leaf cuttings include African Violets and Sansevieria.

Leaf cuttings of African violets root so readily, they can simply be suspended in a well aerated, jar of water. The suspended leaves can be supported by simply covering the mouth of a jar with foil or paper held in place with a rubber band. Holes are easily punched in this covering, and the leaf stems inserted so the bottom of each leaf stalk touches the water.

Sansevieria is another interesting plant that can be started from leaf cuttings. The leaves are long, leathery and sword-shaped. Just select a whole leaf and then cut it into 2-inch sections starting from the tip all the way down. Remember…if cuttings are stuck upside down they will not root.

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Leaf cuttings can be literally crowded together, almost shoulder to shoulder. This crowding will not harm them, and once the root systems have been developed they can be separated for transplanting into individual pots.

Plants Propagated from Leaf Cuttings:

Plants which can be successfully propagated from leaf cuttings include the following:

African violet
Begonia rex
Cactus (particularly varieties producing “pads” like Bunnies Ears)
Crassula (Jade Plant)
Kalanchoe
Peperomia
Plectranthus (Swedish Ivy)
Sansevieria
Sedum

Leaf Vein Cuttings:

Plants with prominent leaf veins can be propagated from leaf-vein cuttings in two ways:

take a leaf and cut it into sections, each section with a vein. The bottom portion of the vein can then be pressed into the propagation medium with the leaf portion sticking up to root just like a leaf cutting. In this manner one leaf can produce up to a dozen new plants.
choose a large leaf and slash the veins at 1 or 2 inch intervals on the underside of the leaf. Place the underside of the leaf in contact with the propagation medium and weight down the leaf to keep it in contact with the soil. New plants will spring to life at each cut in the leaf.

Common plants that can be propagated from leaf vein cuttings include:

Rex begonia
Sinningla
Smithianthas (Temple Bells)

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        Developing a Management Plan for Irrigation Runoff
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        Propagating Monstera deliciosa
        Monstera deliciosa is commonly referred to as Swiss cheese plant, Mexican breadfruit, and hurricane plant. It grows as an understory plant in its native Central America and became a popular houseplant in the United States in the 1950s thanks to the plant’s large, tropical foliage and ease of care.
        Today, M. deliciosa is typically available wherever tropical houseplants are sold. Most varieties feature solid green leaves while the variegated forms are usually rarer.
        Plant characteristics
        In nature, the M. deliciosa is a vining plant, attaching to tree links and trunks with its aerial roots. A mature plant may reach more than 50 feet long and may be considered invasive in its native habitat.
        M. deliciosa has distinctive leaves that are glossy green, heart-shaped, perforated, and deeply lobed and can reach up to several feet in width. Younger plants will lack perforations and deep lobes. M. deliciosa may be mistaken with the plant Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (both were formerly in the genus Philodendron) and incorrectly called «split-leaf philodendron. » To help tell them apart, remember M. deliciosa‘s nickname: the Swiss cheese plant. Mature M. deliciosa plants have small holes in their leaves much like Swiss cheese whereas T. bipinnatifidum only has deep cuts.
        Much like a peace lily or jack-in-the-pulpit (both belong to the same family as M. deliciosa: Araceae), M. deliciosa has a flower that consists of a white spike (spadix) and a sheath (spathe). As the sheath dies back, the spike transforms into a fruit. The fruit is ripe when the scales on the outside of the fruit start separating, showing the yellow-white flesh.
        M. deliciosa do not form flowers or fruit as houseplants. While our homes may reach appropriate air temperatures, our indoor environments lack adequate humidity.
        Propagation
        Monstera deliciosa can easily be propagated from stem cuttings, air layering or division as long as each division includes a node (the point where a leaf develops on a stem). Cuttings that lack a node and axillary bud, such as the leaves, will not produce new growth and ultimately will rot. The leaves and petioles of M. deliciosa will not grow on their own because new growth comes from axillary buds and nodes on the stem.
        Cuttings may be taken at any time of year. We recommend supplemental lighting in the early morning or late afternoon for 2 to 3 hours and misting your plant every 2 to 3 days.
        Propagation by stem cuttings
        Follow these steps to ensure your Monstera deliciosa stem cutting roots successfully.
        Find a node with an axillary bud (refer to the Monstera propagation map).
        Multiple leaves on your cutting promote better rooting through photosynthesis.
        Cut 1 to 2 inches below the node, along the internode. If using auxin, rub along the cutting’s node.
        Moisten the rooting medium.
        Make a hole in the medium and insert your cutting.
        Keep cuttings moist.
        Check for root development by lifting your cutting carefully using a popsicle stick, plant transplant or small spatula.
        If roots are few or haven’t yet developed, put your cutting back into the medium.
        If roots have developed, you can transplant your cutting.
        Transplant your cutting into a new container filled with moist potting soil. Leave about 2 inches of media between your cutting and your container.
        Rooting media
        M. deliciosa can be propagated in a variety of media. The main purpose of rooting media is to maintain moisture and to support the cutting and its root development. It must also drain well to prevent the cuttings from rotting.
        Perlite: Provides support for the new plants, and oxygen and moisture to roots. Perlite is the most common medium used for Monstera deliciosa cuttings.
        Potting soil: This media can be purchased in garden centers, hardware stores and online. It provides support for new roots and good drainage.
        Potting soil should be kept moist to prevent the cuttings from drying out.
        Excessively wet, cool soil can cause damping off disease.
        LECA can be purchased online and at stores that specialize in propagation and hydroponics. It may be more expensive than other media, but can be reused.
        Pros: In water, you can observe root growth, the plants are also easy to care for and they don’t require much space. The water should be changed when it becomes cloudy.
        Cons: Plant roots grown in water are weaker than those grown in solid rooting media. Woody plants such as citrus and hibiscus tend to rot when rooted in water.
        Rooting hormone
        Auxin is a plant hormone and a common plant growth regulator (PGR) that stimulates rooting, shooting, and blooming when propagating plants. Although auxin is found naturally within plants, applying auxin to a plant cutting can encourage cell division and improve the plant’s ability to develop longer root cells. Rooting hormone is available in powder, liquid and gel formats and can be purchased at garden centers and online.
        Although M. deliciosa may root without additional hormones, auxin can promote faster rooting and dense root growth. Apply rooting hormone powder to the node before placing the cutting in the rooting medium. Auxin may also be added directly to water to encourage new rooting.
        Containers
        Containers of various materials and sizes can be used for growing plants: ceramic, plastic or resin pots, plastic food containers — there are few limits to what you can use.
        Avoid containers that have been used for storing chemicals. Examples include pesticide containers, buckets used for asphalt sealant, and gasoline and oil cans.
        When choosing a container for your cuttings, consider the size of your cutting, support and drainage.
        Monstera cuttings are top heavy, so select a heavier container to prevent tipping over. Containers might be made of terracotta, glazed ceramic or resin.
        Containers should be at least 4 inches in diameter and 5 inches deep. A one-quart nursery pot is also a good choice.
        Avoid containers that are too large as it is harder to gauge the moisture level of the media, which can lead to over or under watering.
        As a plant grows, transplant it into a slightly larger container.
        Stake your cutting by tying it to a bamboo stake with a piece of nylon stocking of cotton rag.
        When your cutting is successfully rooted and transplanted into a longer-term container, you can buy or build trellising to support and encourage your Monstera plant to climb.
        Your container should have at least one hole about the diameter of a pencil.
        Poor drainage and too much moisture can cause your new roots on your cutting to rot.
        Caring for your cuttings
        For the first 1 to 2 weeks keep the potting medium continually moist. When you water, place the pot in a sink and allow excess water to drain. After the first week, allow the top of the soil to dry out between waterings.
        Keep your cutting in a bright, warm location, out of direct sunlight.
        Place your cutting near windows that receive north and eastern light. Keep it away from windows in rooms that get direct southern or western sunlight.
        Roots will form in about 2 to 4 weeks.
        To check for roots, use a spatula, plant label or small trowel to gently lift your cutting out of its media. Inspect the roots. They should be creamy white and firm.
        If they are brown and soft, you are overwatering or your container is not draining well.
        A cutting with root rot may not survive and you may have to take a new cutting.
        If your M. deliciosa is propagated in late fall or early winter, supplemental light may be needed for about 2 to 3 hours each day.
        See Lighting for indoor plants and starting seeds.
        When to transplant your rooted cutting
        When healthy roots have formed and you observe active growth, it is time to transplant your Monstera into a larger pot for long-term growth. As your new plant grows, Monstera deliciosa should be repotted in late winter or early spring every one to two years.
        Houseplants should be repotted into a larger container if:
        Roots are growing out of the bottom of your pot.
        The potting soil dries out within 24 hours.
        The plant has overgrown the container, causing it to tip over easily.
        You can easily lift your plant and the whole root ball out of the container (potbound).
        The plant is dull and seems to have stopped growing.
        Choose a container that is about two inches wider than the current container. The new pot should be at least 1 to 2 inches taller than the current container.
        About variegated Monstera
        There are many different M. deliciosa varieties that are variegated such as ‘Thai Constellation’, ‘Albo Borsigiana’, and ‘Aurea’ (or ‘Marmorata’). These plants have unique white and yellow coloration caused by mutations during growth.
        The mutations alter the amount of chlorophyll, the pigment that gives plants their green color, in different sections of the foliage causing unique patterns to form. Due to the lack of chlorophyll, energy from the sun is absorbed at a slower rate than in a fully green Monstera resulting in slower growth rates.
        Some of these mutations alter the plant’s foliage for its lifespan and others are only temporary due to the instability of some mutations and the potential for non-variegated growth to outgrow variegation. The different kinds of mutations that can cause variegation can be quite rare (as low as a 0.001% chance) as well as expensive. They also can take a long time to propagate.
        Purchase healthy plants and seeds only from reputable companies and suppliers. You may encounter people selling variegated Monstera seeds or plants. Seeds do not contain variegation; the change in coloration is a mutation that forms after the seed has been germinated. Cuttings should have at least one healthy node.
        Plus sign (+) if content is closed, ‘X’ if content is open.
        Crane, Jonathan H, and Carlos F Balerdi. “Monstera Growing in the Florida Home Landscape.” UF IFAS Extension, University of Florida, 6 Jan. 2020. https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/HS311#FOOTNOTE_1
        Evans, Ervin, and Frank Blazich. “Plant Propagation by Leaf, Cane, and Root Cuttings.” NC State Extension Publications, NC State University, 31 Jan. 1999, https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/plant-propagation-by-leaf-cane-and-root-cuttings-instructions-for-the-home-gardener.
        Hessayon, D. G. (1992). The New House Plant Expert. pbi Publications.
        Mahr, Susan. “Split-Leaf Philodendron, Monstera Deliciosa.” Wisconsin Horticulture, University of Wisconsin-Madison, https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/split-leaf-philodendron-monstera-deliciosa/
        Authors: Noah Burley, Extension horticulture intern, and Julie Weisenhorn, Extension horticulture educator